2023 – Chasing the Taj: A Family Trip with Unexpected Stops

The Taj Mahal, a monument shrouded in beauty and elusive to me for years, finally beckoned. This October, with family in tow, I embarked on a whirlwind trip to Agra, a journey filled with nearly-missed flights, farm stays, and, of course, the awe-inspiring Taj itself.

Missed Connections and Unexpected Detours:

My first attempt in 2007 ended with a frustrating glimpse from afar; a closed Taj on a Friday. In 2010, traffic conspired against us, snatching our flight. This time, however, destiny seemed to smile. Despite initial plans, we decided on a multi-city approach: my parents, Preeti and Ishaan flying directly to Agra, while I received Aparna in Delhi and joined them later.

Delhi Detour: Farm Stay and Naturally Good Vibes

Reaching Delhi a day early, I reconnected with my biker buddy, “Biscuit,” who insisted I stay at his farm instead of a hotel. I heard all about Shakti’s side hustle, “Naturally Good“, Organically Grown, Seasonal vegetables harvested in a farm and delivered. Surrounded by nature, in a rustic house and 3 playful dogs, we indulged in “Naturally Good” organic farm-fresh food and “Bush Rum” , catching up over laughter and stories. “

We had picked up Bush Rum, a dark rum from UK, from the largest liquor store in the area called Liquor Fort, with a very large variety of alcohol, at prices that, for someone from Bangalore, were “surprises”.

The next morning, a short walk around property, and a granola/muesli smoothie later, we were on our way to the airport, to drop me and pick up Aparna.

Agra: A Culinary Adventure and the Taj’s Enigmatic Embrace:

Picking up my sister from the airport, we journeyed to Agra, stopping for a delicious roadside lunch of Aloo Paratha and her “best ever lassi.”

We reached Agra by about 3pm, and after a quick check-in, we finally arrived at the Taj.

First Glimpse: Breathtaking Beauty with a Hint of Disappointment

Being Taller than average proved advantageous as we navigated the crowds. The Taj, bathed in the golden light of sunset, was undeniably magnificent. The marble structure, sprawling lawns, and Yamuna backdrop were breathtaking.

Yet, upon closer inspection, it didn’t quite hold the same magic for me as the Ranakpur Jain temple I’d visited before.

Exhausted but content, we returned to the hotel for dinner and a well-deserved rest. The Taj Mahal, though not quite the love-at-first-sight I expected, had woven its magic nonetheless. The day’s adventures, delicious food, and family bonding promised an unforgettable Agra experience.

Fatehpur Sikri, Nearly Missed Flight, and Chole Bhature

My parents and Aparna had a return flight from Agra at 2pm. My sister wanted to see more of Agra, and Fatehpur Sikri is another must-do. Mum and dad preferred to stay at the hotel, while we took the taxi to Fatehpur Sikri at 9am.

Our enthusiastic taxi driver took us on a scenic detour through Agra’s bustling market, adding 25 minutes to our journey. Reaching Fatehpur Sikri, we squeezed onto a crowded bus and hired a costly guide for a whirlwind tour. We covered the essentials – prayers, the saint’s tomb, and the majestic Buland Darwaza – before rushing back, guilt gnawing at us for our parents were at the airport checked-in, and waiting anxiously for my sister.

Airport Antics

Back in Agra, we raced against the clock to reach the airport. With my parents already there, check-in snags arose due to my sister’s absence. Google Maps, our unreliable friend, led us astray, adding to the frantic search for the correct gate. Thankfully, the kind Indigo crew allowed us a last-minute drop-off, reuniting us just before the plane’s departure. Preeti, Ishaan and I stayed back for 2 more days, to explore more of Agra.

Relaxation & Revelry:

Exhausted but exhilarated, we indulged in Agra’s culinary delights: chole bhature and jamun at the iconic Gopika Sweets.

As the sun dipped, we captured stunning views of the Taj Mahal from Mehtab Bagh across the Yamuna.

The River View of the Taj, we found out, is a seperate ticketed location. We were there by 5pm, and took some interesting shots of the Taj in the golden sunset hour.

Dinner was a lively affair at Mama Franky’s, a local favorite pulsating with music and vibrant lights. While Preeti and Ishaan opted for pasta next door, I savored a melt-in-your-mouth Galouti kebab roll, relishing the explosion of flavors.

We were to leave Agra, and head to Delhi the next day. We decided to see the Agra Fort, and leave for Delhi post lunch.

As we drifted off to sleep, the day’s adventures replayed in our minds. Despite the hiccups, Agra had woven its magic, leaving us with unforgettable memories and a newfound appreciation for its cultural treasures and chaotic charm.

The Early morning Taj

I was informed that the Taj is exceptional at dawn, as the translucent marble gives different colored hues to the dome, as the sun rises.

To catch a glimpse of this, i set out by 5:30am to view the Taj once more. Preeti and Ishaan preferred to sleep in, and rest after the previous day’s adventurous end.

I reached the Taj by 5:45am and to witness a large queue just to get the shuttle to the entrance. I decided to speed walk up the path instead to save time.

I did manage to get through the crowded gateway, and took a few shots from my phone and camera

I returned to the Hotel by about 8:30am, and headed straight for a sumptuous breakfast. We completed the checkout procedures, decided to visit the beautiful Agra Fort and head back to Delhi for Part-2 of our vacation.

Agra Fort visit, and A fortunate Discovery

We proceeded to the grandiose Agra Fort after moving from the Hotel. The Taxi driver “arranged” a guide for us, and fixed the guide price at Rs. 700/-. He gave us explicit instructions not to pay a penny over and sent us on our way.

Our guide, then proceeded to leave us with another, as we reached closer to the entrance and we continued the tour with a new guide, who charged us Rs. 1500/- for the tour after a lot of negotiation.

The Agra Fort, was also playing host to two busses filled with young school children and we had to time our movements around the fort to ensure we were not caught in the midst of the gaggle and babble of school children, and their guides, and the ruckus they were creating.

The Fort in itself was very well kept, and the guide explained to us all the important aspects of the monument. We got to see the Taj from the Fort, the Sheesh mahal, and Ishaan got quite the education about the Agra Fort.

A Serendipitous Discovery: The Baby Taj

On the way out of Agra, I chanced upon another monument across the Yamuna, that looked quite interesting. A short google search revealed it to be called “The Baby Taj” of Agra – The Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah. Since we had the time, I requested the driver to take us to this monument.

The Baby Taj, built entirely in pristine white marble, was a true revelation. Its intricate carvings, well-preserved paintings, and captivating beauty showcased the initial shift from red sandstone to white marble in Mughal architecture. This smaller yet equally captivating tomb offered a unique perspective on Mughal artistry and provided a fitting conclusion to our Agra exploration.

After spending an hour admiring the Baby Taj, we enjoyed a quick lunch and embarked on our journey back to Delhi, our hearts brimming with the memories of Agra’s enchanting beauty.

This experience not only reaffirmed the iconic status of the Taj Mahal but also unveiled the city’s lesser-known treasures, making it a truly unforgettable journey.

The Complete set of Pictures of our Adventures in Agra below