Week 1 – Jan 8th to 15th – Bhuj & Nakhatrana

I’d been dreaming of a motorcycle tour across Gujarat and Rajasthan, wrapping it up with BOBMC RiderMania 2015 at Kikar Lodge, hosted by the Chandigarh Road Survivors.

This was my first Ridermania with my Bullet 500 UCE, having previously done three RMs on my trusty Cast Iron Electra 5S.

2500 km. 20 Days. A ride through changing landscapes, unexpected adventures, and unforgettable people. The Ride plan.

8th Jan – Touchdown in Ahmedabad

I flew into Ahmedabad and was warmly welcomed by fellow biker Love Joshi and his family. Love was supposed to join the ride to Bhuj, but had to back out last minute. Still, the vibe was good, and the ride was about to begin.

9th Jan – Rescue the Bike & Last-Minute Preps

My Bullet had traveled by train. Found it roasting on Platform 6 at the Railway Parcel Office.

After much waiting, Amit Bhai, a kind soul among disinterested loaders, helped me navigate the bike out via two elevators and a walkway. Freedom!

A 1-km push to the nearest petrol pump gave me a good reason to indulge in a Gujarati thali at Toran Dining Hall.

Later, I went out for some bike essentials—bungees, spare tubes, and of course, snacks.

We wrapped up the day with dinner and ice cream at Meltin, hanging out with Love, his daughters Kiara and Tiana, and an old friend from EDI.

10th Jan – And the Ride Begins 🚩

Love’s dad woke me at 6 AM with chai and bread—classic biker hospitality. I waved goodbye and started riding toward Bhuj.

Quick chai stops near the Tata and Ford factories were my way of easing into the journey.

Chai was my “sutta” (smoke) for this ride.

The morning chill hit hard—my DryFit tee was definitely the wrong choice! But smooth roads and sparse traffic made the first 115 km fly by.

Breakfast Stop: “HONEST” in Halvad—Veg cheese sandwich, OJ, and “Special Chai”.

Along the way, I passed salt pans and transmission towers.

I traversed the periphery of Dhrangadhra’s Wild Ass Sanctuary, home to Asia’s only such reserve (the other is in Mongolia).

I reached Bhuj by 3 PM—330 km done!

A Reunion & A Detour

Met up with Punit Soni, an old college buddy who apparently stopped aging at puberty.

Over 4 Dabelis, we caught up and, on his recommendation, I decided to head out to CEDO (Centre for Desert and Ocean) in Moti Virani, to explore the Banni Grasslands.

By 8:30 PM, I reached CEDO—cozy room, comfy bed, six charging points (yes, I counted!). After a simple dinner, I met the legendary Mr. Jugal Tiwari, a renowned naturalist who convinced me to stay for two nights and two safaris.

Instead of hiring a naturalist, I chose to just hire the driver to show me the spots, and I could cross-check species later with Mr. Jugal.

11th Jan – Birding Bliss at Banni Grasslands

The morning safari was alright but I realised a naturalist is very much an important part of the deal. I wanted to know the how and why of the land and the history of what I saw was important to me.

I requested Mr. Tiwari for a naturalist for evening safari but no one was available. I took permission from another guest to “share” his naturalist.

The Day began with and Early start of chai (and a teaspoon of coffee!).

Had breakfast of bread and jam and chutney. Banana and chai.

Sunrise on a Dry River Bed in Banni Grasslands

Rode out to the dry riverbed and captured the sunrise over dew-laced leaves.

One more of the Sun, with the dew still visible on the leaves.

Saw:

– Pied Kingfisher diving

– Camels on wetlands

From the watch tower we could see 100s of camels on the Banni Wetlands.

– 100s of flamingos and cranes by sunset

The sunset over flamingos was nothing short of surreal.

– Imperial and Steppe eagles sharing a kill

Pro tip: A good naturalist adds depth. I managed to share one with another guest for the evening safari—worth every second.

12th Jan – Misty Roads & Mechanical Woes

Left early with birders Vaibhav and Rajan toward Mandvi. The bike started acting up—wouldn’t go past 70km/h.

En route:

– Snapped seagulls, ducks, and stents at Taponsar Lake

– Tried jalebi & fafda for breakfast

Mandvi Palace was unimpressive, and I skipped entering (didn’t want to risk losing my riding boots outside).

Returned to Bhuj by 2 PM and caught up with Punit over a disappointing pav bhaji and sev puri at Havmor.

Bike was sputtering. Took it to Saif Motors—filter and carb cleaned, but pick-up still low. Was advised to visit Royal Enfield service at Gandhidham on the next day.

Hamirsar Lake, With a view of the Prag Mahal in the background

I spent the little free time I had at the Bhuj Palace, Prag Mahal, and Hamirsar Lake, before heading to Krishna’s house.

Krishna Thacker, another friend from EDI, insisted I camp at his house, inspite of his absence.

13th Jan – Down with a Bug

Woke up with diarrhea. Took meds and passed out. Bangalore buddy Prashant Kumar suspected a spark plug issue instead of the coil.

The whole day was about rest and recovery.

14th Jan – The Never-Ending Repair Day

Left Bhuj at 10:30 AM for Gandhidham. Found NCP Auto, the RE service center.

The ordeal:
– Waited hours to be attended
– Owner lent me his bike for lunch (Sankalp) and a lemonade
– Diagnosed a tear in the carb seal
– Initially refused warranty
– After escalation and sending a positive testimonial in advance, they replaced it

Left at 6 PM, decided to meet the Neet brothers and Madbulls in Bhuj, instead of heading to Dholavira, but a “helpful” local misdirected me to the under construction Mundra highway.

Stranded Near Chassra – A Rider’s Worst Nightmare

Stranded Sans Petrol near Chassra, Gujarat

A superb 45 minutes full blast ride later nearing Chassra village, the bike jerked and came to a halt—out of petrol in the middle of nowhere.

Some shady dudes on a Pulsar offered help—no thanks. Waited. Eventually, a jeep appeared. Turned out to be the village tahsildar’s son. Helped me out, refused money, but I insisted.

He suggested a shorter route through the village, that would save me 40km. I Rode through stunning sunset-lit village roads escorted by Altaf, who got me an extra litre just in case.

The Final Drama in Bhuj

Reached a petrol pump, filled up… and then gas started pouring out.

Panic! Insects! Pitch darkness!

Turned out the tank was just overfilled. After fixing the overflow, raced back to Bhuj.

Checked into Hotel Anjali—occupied by pigeons on the AC. Chased them out. 😄

Dinner with the Madbulls at “Lucky Restaurant”. Tandoori chicken was good. The “specials”? Not so much. Resolved to stay vegetarian in Gujarat.

The Plan Ahead

Word was that BSF allows vehicles onto the Rann from Dholavira, not Khavda. So the plan was to:
– Ride to Dholavira by 7 AM
– Visit the Harappan Site
– Ride the Rann
– Reach Kumbhalgarh next day by lunch

It looked perfect… on paper.

Few Pictures of this Ride here